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A journey to Lyon is more than a trip; it’s an immersion into the rich tapestry of French culture and cuisine that has shaped this city’s soul. Lyon, famed as France’s gastronomic capital, invites travelers to discover its unique blend of heritage, art, and culinary mastery. Nestled between two rivers and framed by stunning hillside views, the city offers an abundance of experiences, from its UNESCO-listed old town with winding cobbled streets to the famed bouchons, where authentic Lyonnaise flavors come to life.
In this post, we’ll guide you through Lyon’s must-see landmarks, like the grand Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière and the historic traboules, as well as the culinary delights that await, from traditional quenelles to the local wines that capture the essence of the Rhône. Prepare to step into a world where every bite and sight reveals another layer of Lyon’s vibrant history and contemporary charm.
Iconic Sights of Lyon: Landmarks You Can’t Miss
Musée des Confluences; At the southern tip of Lyon’s Presqu'île, where the Rhône and Saône rivers meet, stands the striking Musée des Confluences. Designed by the Viennese architectural firm Coop Himmelb(l)au, this futuristic marvel of steel and glass is the centerpiece of Lyon’s modern Confluence district. With its bold, distorted structure, the museum has become one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks. Inside, the museum’s permanent exhibitions are thoughtfully arranged into four thematic sections. The 'Origins' exhibit delves into the birth of the Earth and theories of evolution, while 'Eternity' examines death rites and their significance across cultures. The 'Societies' section takes a closer look at the organization and interactions of human groups, and 'Species' is dedicated to the wonders of natural history. Visitors should also set aside time to explore the museum’s excellent rotating temporary exhibitions, which add even more depth to this dynamic cultural hub.
Musée des Beaux-Arts; This impressive and easily navigable museum boasts France’s most distinguished collection of sculptures and paintings outside of Paris, spanning from antiquity to modern times. Among its highlights are masterpieces by Rodin, Monet, and Picasso. Visitors can enhance their experience by picking up a complimentary audioguide. For a perfect pause, enjoy a drink or meal on the charming stone terrace of the museum’s café-restaurant or unwind in the serene cloister garden.
Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière; Perched atop the hill and offering breathtaking panoramic views of the city from its terrace, this exceptional example of late 19th-century French ecclesiastical architecture is adorned with stunning mosaics. From April to November, free 30-minute discovery tours highlight the main features of the basilica and its crypt. For those seeking a more immersive experience, 90-minute rooftop tours ("Visite Insolite") conclude with access to the intricately carved stone roof. Be sure to reserve tickets for the rooftop tour online in advance.
Lyon Confluence; Lyon's race toward the future is personified in this reborn industrial district near the southern tip of Presqu'île. Once a landscape of empty warehouses and urban blight, the newly dubbed Confluence is a 150-hectare district of cutting-edge architecture and innovative redesign. After years of construction and millions of euros in investment, the urban-renewal project has brought new shops, restaurants, high-end lodging and one groundbreaking new museum (reminiscent of the Bilbao Guggenheim) to a formerly abandoned part of the city. The first phase of the project focused on the Saône riverbanks, with the creation of architecturally daring buildings, including Le Cube Orange, a striking iridescent orange office building designed by Jakob + Macfarlane architects. Also in the area is the sleek, modern Pôle de Commerces et de Loisirs Confluence, which reinvents the shopping experience with a huge transparent roof that allows light to filter through the complex. The crown jewel of the district is the science-and-humanities museum, Musée des Confluences. It's set in a jaw-dropping architectural work of geometric forms in glass and steel, right at the meeting of the Rhône and the Saône.
Cathédrale St-Jean-Baptiste; Lyon’s partially Romanesque cathedral, constructed between the late 11th and early 16th centuries, showcases an impressive blend of architectural styles. Its Flamboyant Gothic façade, completed in 1480 and recently restored, features 280 intricately carved stone medallions. Inside, the standout attraction is the astronomical clock located in the north transept. The adjoining treasury holds a remarkable collection of sacred art, including 17th-century Flemish tapestries and an exquisite 10th-century carved ivory chest from the Byzantine era. During the Fête des Lumières, the cathedral becomes a focal point, with vibrant projections illuminating its main façade in a dazzling display.
Musées Gadagne; Set in a 16th-century mansion originally built for two wealthy Florentine bankers, this dual-themed museum offers an engaging glimpse into Lyon’s rich heritage. The Musée d'Histoire de Lyon provides a comprehensive look at the city's evolution, detailing its urban development alongside its silk-weaving, cinema, and transportation history. Complementing this is the Musée des Marionettes du Monde, an international puppet museum that celebrates the legacy of Lyon’s beloved puppet, Guignol. Visitors can relax on the 4th floor, where a café opens onto serene, terraced gardens dating back to the 14th century. A free audioguide is available, offering an excellent overview of the city's key historical events.
Place des Terreaux; At the heart of the Presqu'île's stunning central square stands an impressive 19th-century fountain, crafted from 21 tonnes of lead by Frédéric-Auguste Bartholdi, renowned for designing the Statue of Liberty. The fountain’s four horses, depicted pulling a chariot, symbolize rivers rushing toward the sea. On the square's eastern side, the grand Hôtel de Ville, originally constructed in 1655, was adorned with its current ornate façade in 1702. Adding a modern touch to the square, Daniel Buren’s installation of 69 polka-dotted granite fountains creates a striking "forest" embedded throughout the space.
In this episode, join Rick Steves as he explores the enchanting city of Lyon, France's culinary capital, renowned for its vibrant food scene and rich history. We’ll stroll through the charming streets, savoring local delicacies and discovering the city's unique blend of culture and tradition. After soaking in the sights and flavors of Lyon, we’ll venture into the breathtaking French Alps. Prepare for stunning mountain vistas, exhilarating outdoor adventures, and the allure of alpine charm as we traverse this picturesque region, from quaint villages to soaring peaks. Whether you're a food lover or an outdoor enthusiast, this journey promises a taste of the best that Lyon and the French Alps have to offer!
Savor the Flavors: Must-Try Food and Drink in Lyon
Salade Lyonnaise; Salade Lyonnaise features a delightful combination of endive, crispy bacon, croutons, and a perfectly poached egg perched on top. Hailing from Lyon, this salad has become a staple on the menus of many charming French bistros and restaurants. As a quintessential example of Lyonnaise cuisine, Salade Lyonnaise traces its roots back to the 1500s, when Catherine de Medici encouraged her chefs to create new dishes using diverse ingredients sourced from across France. Today, you can often find this salad served in cozy eateries known as bouchons, which specialize in comforting, hearty fare.
Quenelles de Brochet; Quenelles de brochet is a classic French dish made from pike fish (brochet), featuring delicate dumplings that are a true culinary delight. To prepare these dumplings, the fish is finely minced and combined with a mixture known as panade, which consists of milk, butter, flour, and eggs. To enhance the texture, heavy cream is often added, resulting in a smooth and airy consistency. The mixture is seasoned with salt, white pepper, nutmeg, and sometimes fresh herbs like chives or parsley. The process begins with making the panade by cooking flour in butter, then adding milk to create a thick paste before incorporating eggs off the heat. The finely minced or pureed pike fish is then blended with the panade and cream until the mixture is silky and homogeneous. Shaping the quenelles into oval or egg-like forms can be done with spoons or by hand. Cooking involves gently poaching them in simmering water or stock until they puff up and float to the surface, indicating they are fully cooked. For an added layer of flavor, the quenelles can be transferred to a baking dish, covered with sauce, and briefly baked. Traditionally, quenelles de brochet are served with a rich, creamy sauce such as sauce Nantua, made with crayfish butter and cream. Other sauces like Mornay, a cheesy béchamel, also pair beautifully with the dish. These quenelles are typically enjoyed as an entrée or main course, often garnished with fresh herbs for a touch of color and flavor.
Pralines roses; Pralines roses, or "pink pralines," are a delightful confectionery originating from France, particularly renowned in Lyon. These eye-catching candies feature almonds coated in a vibrant pink sugar shell, making them as visually appealing as they are delicious. They are also a key ingredient in several traditional French desserts. The primary components are almonds and sugar, with pink food coloring providing their signature hue. The preparation process involves coating the almonds in a pink sugar syrup, which is heated until it crystallizes around the nuts, forming a crunchy and sweet outer layer. This coating process is typically repeated multiple times to create a thick and consistent finish. Pralines roses are versatile and feature prominently in various desserts, with one of the most celebrated being Tarte aux Pralines Roses, a specialty from Lyon. This tart boasts a pastry crust filled with a mixture of crushed pralines and cream, resulting in a rich, sweet, and visually stunning dessert. Another popular use is in brioche, where the pralines are either incorporated into the dough or sprinkled on top before baking, adding a delightful crunch and flavor.
Coussin de Lyon; Coussin de Lyon is a beloved traditional French confection that hails from Lyon. This delightful treat is a type of marzipan candy, easily recognizable by its unique cushion shape and vibrant green hue. Made from premium almond paste, each piece is filled with a rich chocolate ganache infused with curaçao, an orange-flavored liqueur. Resembling a small, rectangular cushion, Coussin de Lyon is typically bright green and adorned with decorative gold or silver accents. The name reflects its cushion-like appearance, and the confection was created in the 1960s by the renowned Lyon-based chocolatier Voisin. It draws inspiration from a historical event during the 17th-century plague when Lyon's aldermen offered a gold cushion with a wax candle to the Virgin Mary, seeking protection from the epidemic. Traditionally handmade, each Coussin de Lyon is crafted to ensure quality and a distinctive look. These confections can be found in upscale chocolate shops throughout Lyon and are also available online through various gourmet retailers.
Rosette de Lyon; Rosette de Lyon is a traditional French sausage that originates from the culinary heart of Lyon, which is reflected in its name. This rich and flavorful sausage is crafted from high-quality pork, seasoned with sea salt, peppercorns, and garlic, all encased in natural beef casing. After being cured for about a month, it develops a sweet and mellow flavor profile. The term "rosette" is thought to refer to the sausage's rose-colored appearance, making it as visually appealing as it is delicious. For the best tasting experience, it is recommended to slice the sausage and serve it alongside a fresh baguette and complementary cheeses such as Grana Padano or Taleggio.
Chartreuse; Chartreuse is one of France's oldest and most beloved liqueurs, with roots that trace back to an ancient manuscript sent to the Grande Chartreuse monastery in the early 18th century. In 1764, the Carthusian monks decoded this manuscript and produced the first iteration of what was initially a health elixir, primarily used for medicinal purposes. By 1840, the monks refined the recipe to create the original Green Chartreuse, the first version of the liqueur still crafted today using a closely guarded formula that incorporates around 130 herbs, spices, and botanicals. The blend is macerated, distilled, and then aged in oak casks to develop its unique character. Chartreuse is available in several varieties, including the original Green Chartreuse (55% ABV), known for its complex herbal and floral aromas. There’s also Yellow Chartreuse (43% ABV), which is produced using a different blend of herbs, resulting in a milder and sweeter flavor profile. Best enjoyed as a digestif, Chartreuse can be served neat or on the rocks, and it also makes an excellent ingredient in cocktails. Additionally, limited editions of the liqueur have included various flavored versions, such as orange, anise, and myrtle, adding to its versatility and appeal.
Beaujolais; Beaujolais is a light-bodied red wine known for its relatively high acidity. Originating from the historic wine-producing region of Beaujolais, this wine is primarily crafted from the thin-skinned Gamay grape, resulting in low tannin levels. As a result, Beaujolais is often treated like a white wine and is typically served slightly chilled. While it rarely requires decanting, allowing Beaujolais to breathe after opening can enhance its aromatic complexity, revealing a fresh nose of cherry and blackberry fruit accompanied by subtle spicy and earthy notes. The wine is categorized into three classifications: Beaujolais AOC, Beaujolais Villages AOC, and Cru Beaujolais. Due to its light body, Beaujolais pairs well with a variety of dishes. Beaujolais Nouveau, the lightest and most widely produced style, is often enjoyed as an aperitif alongside salads. Lighter Cru Beaujolais wines, such as Brouilly, Régnié, and Chiroubles, complement poultry dishes nicely. In contrast, the fuller-bodied Cru Beaujolais, including Morgon, Régnié, and Juliénas, are better suited for pairing with red meats and hearty stews.
As we journey through the culinary wonders of Lyon and the stunning landscapes of the French Alps, we discover a rich tapestry of flavors, traditions, and history that define this remarkable region. From the vibrant streets of Lyon, known as the gastronomic capital of France, we delight in iconic dishes such as Salade Lyonnaise, a hearty blend of endive, bacon, croutons, and a perfectly poached egg, embodying the essence of Lyonnaise cuisine that dates back to the 1500s. We savor the delicate Quenelles de brochet, expertly crafted from pike fish and a creamy panade, served in rich sauces like Nantua or Mornay, highlighting the city's mastery in transforming simple ingredients into culinary masterpieces. Our exploration continues with the sweet allure of Pralines roses, those delightful pink candies that add a pop of color and flavor to various desserts, particularly the renowned Tarte aux Pralines Roses. We also indulge in Coussin de Lyon, a marzipan delicacy filled with chocolate ganache, connecting us to the historical roots of the city while indulging our sweet tooth.
As we move beyond the city, we encounter the robust flavors of Rosette de Lyon, a traditional sausage perfect for pairing with a baguette and a selection of fine cheeses, and the herbal complexity of Chartreuse, a liqueur with origins in the 18th century that has become synonymous with the region’s rich monastic traditions. We toast with a glass of Beaujolais, a light-bodied red wine that complements the local cuisine, from salads to hearty stews, and showcases the unique terroir of the Beaujolais region. In the breathtaking backdrop of the French Alps, we engage in high-altitude adventures that deepen our appreciation for the local culture and cuisine. From savoring artisanal cheeses crafted in the alpine heights to hiking the iconic Tour du Mont Blanc, we connect with the land and its flavors in a way that is both exhilarating and nourishing.
Ultimately, the culinary journey through Lyon and the French Alps is more than just a feast for the senses; it’s an exploration of history, tradition, and the artistry of food. Each dish tells a story, and every ingredient is steeped in local heritage, inviting us to savor not only the flavors but the essence of a region that takes immense pride in its gastronomic legacy. Whether you're planning your next trip or simply dreaming of the French countryside, let these culinary delights inspire you to explore the flavors of Lyon and the French Alps, reminding you that the best meals are often those shared with friends and family amidst stunning scenery and rich cultural experiences.
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