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Nestled along the sun-kissed shores of Croatia's Dalmatian coast, the town of Hvar is a jewel that glistens with history, culture, and culinary delights. Far from the bustling resorts and tourist hotspots dot the island, Hvar offers a unique blend of old-world charm and contemporary vibrancy. With its medieval architecture, vibrant markets, and cuisine that reflects the bounty of the Adriatic, Hvar invites travelers to step into a world where every corner tells a story and every meal is a celebration. In this post, we'll explore the cultural treasures and gastronomic wonders that make Hvar an essential stop for anyone seeking to truly embrace the heart of Croatia's island gem.
Unmissable Landmarks: Discovering Hvar's Must-See Sights
Fortica; Perched high above Hvar town and bathed in a golden glow after dark, this medieval fortress stands on the site of an ancient Illyrian settlement dating back to before 500 BC. The breathtaking views overlooking Hvar and the Pakleni Islands make the climb through the old-town streets well worth the effort. Once you pass through the town walls, a gentle ascent along a tree-shaded path leads to the fortress, though you can also opt for a taxi ride to the top (100 KN). Originally, the Byzantines constructed a citadel on this site in the 6th century, and the Venetians began building the present fortress in 1278. It was further fortified in 1551, a crucial enhancement that likely saved the lives of Hvar's residents when they sought refuge here during the Turkish attack of 1571. The Austrians later renovated the fortress in the 19th century, adding barracks. Today, visitors can explore a collection of ancient amphorae recovered from the seabed and enjoy refreshments at a terrace café.
Trg Sv Stjepana; Stretching from the harbor to the cathedral, this expansive rectangular square was created by filling in a bay inlet that once extended inland. Covering 4,500 square meters, it ranks among the largest historic squares in Dalmatia. Hvar Town’s walled center, established in the 13th century, spans the northern slopes, while the southern expansion didn’t occur until the 15th century. As you explore, keep an eye out for the well tucked beneath the restaurant umbrellas near the cathedral. Built in 1520, it features a wrought-iron grille added in 1780.
Arsenal; Described in Venetian records as "the most beautiful and the most useful building in all of Dalmatia," the Arsenal once served as a key repair and refitting station for war galleons. The current structure, built in 1611, replaced an earlier one destroyed by the Ottomans. While you can’t pass through the grand archway, you can climb the stairs to the terrace for scenic views of Hvar's picturesque harbor. Upstairs, you'll find a charming theatre adorned with frescoes and baroque loggias. Opened in 1612, it is believed to be the first theatre in Europe to welcome both commoners and aristocrats. It remained a vibrant cultural hub for centuries, hosting performances until 2008. In 2016, the remains of a 1st-century Roman structure were uncovered beneath the floor. Although the complex has been under restoration for many years, parts of it are occasionally opened for special events.
Franciscan Monastery; Perched above a charming cove, this 15th-century monastery features a graceful bell tower, crafted in the 16th century by a renowned family of stonemasons from Korčula. Its Renaissance cloister leads to a refectory showcasing an array of treasures, including lace, coins, nautical charts, and rare documents like a 1524 edition of Ptolemy’s Atlas. Inside, the centerpiece is an impressive Last Supper painting by Venetian artist Matteo Ingoli, measuring 8 meters by 2.5 meters and dating to the late 16th century. The adjacent church, dedicated to Our Lady of Mercy, boasts additional masterpieces, including three polyptychs created by Francesco da Santacroce in 1583, considered the pinnacle of the artist's career.
St Stephen's Cathedral; Providing a striking backdrop to the main square, this baroque cathedral was constructed in the 16th and 17th centuries, during the height of the Dalmatian Renaissance, to replace an earlier cathedral destroyed by the Turks. Remnants of the older structure can still be seen, including stone reliefs of saints near the rear of the nave and intricately carved 15th-century choir stalls. The cathedral's most distinctive feature is its tall, rectangular bell tower, which gains an extra window at each level, lending it a uniquely top-heavy appearance.
Benedictine Convent; Playwright and poet Hanibal Lucić was born in this town house in 1485, but since 1664, it has served as a home for a community of Benedictine nuns. Over the centuries, the nuns have mastered the delicate art of lacemaking, meticulously crafting lace from fibers of dried agave leaves. This unique tradition has earned recognition on UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list. A small museum within the house displays the nuns' intricate lacework, along with a collection of paintings and liturgical items.
Flavors of Hvar: Must-Try Food and Drink Delights
Gregada; This simple fish stew with potatoes, known as gregada, is considered the oldest method of preparing fish in Dalmatia, likely introduced by Greek settlers over 2,000 years ago. Potatoes, a later local addition, were incorporated after their introduction to the region. Traditionally, the dish is made by layering thinly sliced potatoes and onions, drizzled with olive oil, and topped with small white saltwater fish. The ingredients are simmered in just enough water and white wine to cover the fish, often with parsley and garlic. Modern variations may include capers and salted anchovies. A staple for local fishermen, gregada is made throughout Dalmatia, but it is especially associated with the central Dalmatian islands, particularly Hvar.
Dalmatinska pašticada; Dalmatinska pašticada is a classic Dalmatian dish made from beef, traditionally using the tough frikando cut from the beef round. The meat is marinated in vinegar and spices for up to two days, then slow-cooked in red wine or prošek with bacon, tomatoes, dried prunes or figs, and root vegetables. After cooking, the sauce is puréed and enhanced with additional spices. Pašticada is typically served at weddings, accompanied by gnocchi or homemade pasta, and is often topped with grated cheese. Experts believe the dish originated in ancient Greece and Rome, journeyed through the Republic of Venice, and eventually became a beloved part of Dalmatian cuisine.
Fritule; Fritule are a traditional Croatian sweet, resembling small, round fritters. Made with a yeasted dough that includes eggs, flour, milk, butter, and sugar, they often feature variations with added raisins, grated apples, yogurt, or baking powder. The dough is typically flavored with rich vanilla and citrus, giving these bite-sized fritters a pleasant aroma and distinctive taste. A key ingredient in the recipe is brandy, which helps keep the fritule crispy and light, preventing them from absorbing too much oil during frying. Rum, local fruit liqueurs, or other strong spirits can also be used. Traditionally served dusted with powdered sugar, modern versions often include toppings like melted chocolate, whipped cream, or caramel. Originally created as a festive treat, fritule are most popular during Christmas and carnival season. While they originated in Dalmatia, they are now enjoyed throughout Croatia as a delicious snack or dessert.
Hobotnica ispod peke; Hobotnica ispod peke is a beloved Dalmatian dish where a whole, fresh octopus is slowly cooked in its own juices beneath a traditional bell-shaped lid called peka. The octopus is typically seasoned with aromatic herbs and spices like garlic, bay leaves, parsley, and black pepper. To enhance moisture, olive oil is sometimes added, while red or white wine may be used to speed up the cooking process. Vegetables such as potatoes, onions, carrots, tomatoes, and bell peppers are often cooked alongside the octopus, making it a convenient one-pot meal. Traditionally, the dish is prepared in a fireplace, with the peka lid covered in hot embers. Hobotnica ispod peke is best enjoyed with kruh ispod peke (bread baked under the lid), perfect for soaking up the rich, flavorful juices.
Janjetina ispod peke; Janjetina ispod peke is a traditional Croatian lamb dish, cooked under a metal dome known as peka in Dalmatia or čripnja in Istria. The lamb is typically combined with potatoes and vegetables like onions, tomatoes, carrots, and zucchinis, all drizzled with olive oil. Sometimes, white wine or beer is added to help speed up the cooking process, and the dish is seasoned with aromatic herbs and spices such as rosemary, bay leaves, mint, paprika, and black pepper. The food is placed in a baking tray or pot, covered with the peka lid, and then placed in a fireplace, with hot embers spread over the top. After hours of slow cooking, the lamb becomes tender, juicy, and falls off the bone. This specialty is often served with a fresh seasonal salad, kruh ispod peke (bread baked under the lid), and paired with a glass of white wine or beer. A staple of Dalmatia and Istria, janjetina ispod peke can be enjoyed in local restaurants or prepared at home.
Dagnje na buzaru; Dagnje na buzaru is a traditional dish from the Croatian coast, featuring mussels as the star ingredient. The mussels are scrubbed and placed in a pot with lukewarm water, covered, and heated until they all crack open. In a separate pan, olive oil, garlic, parsley, and a pinch of pepper are sautéed, then combined with the mussels and a few slices of lemon. White wine is added for an extra layer of flavor, and the mixture is simmered briefly. Before serving, breadcrumbs are often sprinkled in to thicken the dish, which is then accompanied by plenty of bread for soaking up the delicious juices. Dagnje na buzaru is the "white" version of this dish, while the "red" variant, known as dagnje na crvenu buzaru or dagnje na crveno, is prepared similarly but includes tomato sauce and omits the breadcrumbs.
Kruh ispod peke; Kruh ispod peke is a traditional Croatian method of baking bread under a lid known as peka. The dough is made with simple ingredients: flour, yeast, salt, and lukewarm water. It should have a stickier consistency than most bread doughs and is kneaded by hand.
After preparing the dough, it's shaped into a circular loaf and left to rise. While the dough is resting, a wood fire is built until only embers remain. The embers are then cleared away, and the dough is placed in the spot where they were. It’s covered with the lid, which is then topped with hot embers. The bread bakes for 45 minutes to an hour, and seasoned bakers can tell when it's ready by tapping it and listening for the sound. Once baked, the bread is covered with a cloth and stood upright to cool slightly. It’s essential to let it cool to a warm temperature before eating, as it can be too hot right out of the oven. When made correctly, the bread will have a network of holes throughout its interior and will stay fresh for an extended period without becoming crumbly. It is best enjoyed warm, paired with pork fat and salt or sugar, according to personal preference. Alternatively, you can dip pieces of kruh ispod peke into a mixture of olive oil and garlic for added flavor.
Plavac mali; Plavac Mali is a native red grape variety from the southern Dalmatian region of Croatia. As a relative of Primitivo and Zinfandel, and a descendant of the Crljenak Kaštelanski and Dobričić varieties, it produces bold, robust wines known for their ripe fruit flavors and high tannin content. Typically made as a varietal wine, Plavac Mali is celebrated as one of Croatia’s flagship reds. Its finest expressions are said to come from the Pelješac peninsula, particularly from the Dingač and Postup appellations. Traditionally, it pairs well with oily or grilled fish, but it also complements red meats, aged cheeses, game, and hearty stews.
Maraschino; This clear, cherry-flavored liqueur, known as Maraschino, has origins dating back to the 16th century when it was first crafted by Dominican monks in Zadar. Made from Marasca cherries, including their pits, the liqueur is renowned for its intense aroma and slight bitterness. Commercial production began in the 18th century under Francesco Drioli during the Venetian Republic’s rule of Dalmatia. However, in the mid-20th century, political upheaval halted production, and it was later unified under a single Yugoslav enterprise, now known as Maraska. Today, Maraschino is produced in other regions, including Italy. Traditionally enjoyed as a digestif, it can be served neat, mixed with tonic water or orange juice, and is also popular in cocktails or as a flavoring in desserts.
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